Routes

Thunderbird Stadium

After hours climbing only.

A barbed wire fence has been added since 1968, likely to keep out folks wanting to see Radiohead for free. Climb over the main entrance gate on the east side of the building, and head through the building to the south. Climb the rock wall on the south end of the building, and up on to the roof.

The rest of the 1968 description is applicable, although I'd recommend Method 1. It's more fun and quicker, especially since it's a royal pain getting your prusiks around the cables should you start from the bottom.

Grant and I used 8mm static cord, which was shredded after a couple ascents. Webbing may hold up a bit better. Kenny Frazz is convinced leather straps are the ticket.

Safety Bears may want to be on belay, which is possible. Use the point where the cables meet the pillar as a single point of protection. Should the leader fall, the belayer should quickly and decisively jump off the high edge of the roof. Theoretically neither will hit the ground.

1968 Guide:

Route 1st. asc. Oct. 1967 L. Watson (assisted by F. Bauman, R. Price, and M. Warr)
Two easy moves get you on the main roof. From the entrance gate at the north side, climb the gate to top of stone wall and mantel shelf to the roof. The roof is supported by cables from twelve 70 ft. concrete pillars. The width of the pillars precluded any method of climbing but by prussicing. Two alternatives present themselves:

1. Climb up a cable (we climbed the 4th one from the north end) and then using prussic slings of at least 12 ft. in length, gain the thunderbird top.
2. Prussic directly from bottom to top. Cable can be used for running belay. (The successful team used method 2).

The birds on top appear to be fairly solid and the hole in the beak can be used as a rappel point.


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Dentistry Cracks II

The original guidebook author feels obliged to justify this "paltry" 15 ft route, a highball by any modern standard.

1968 Guide:
Route 1st. asc 1966 M. Ablitt, T. Auger
The south west corner provides the lowest wall height. Ascend the low wing by climbing onto the porch roof and up onto the low wing. The upper portion is ascended by 'jamming' up between the window panes - prominent features of the building's architecture. It's a slightly neat pitch. O.k?!! About 15 ft. high. (Also climb the little roof shack to summit of course).

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Friedman

1968 Guide:
The smaller Bio-med buildings are of almost identical construction. The problem of a route up these disgustingly simple and slippery structures was first solved in 1965 by M. Wisnicki and T. Auger. Their ascent was of the western building, and the other was climbed shortly thereafter by T. Auger, M. Wisnicki and G. Headley.

Ascent is damn strenuous, exposed, and generally classic. On one end of either building there is a stairway encased in glass and aluminum. Grab aluminum frames on either side of an outer corner and layback up windows. This is for three stories, but partial rests on cross-frames are available. Running shoes or klettershue recommended. Beware sweaty hands or wet feet. A mantleshelf completes ascent.


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War Memorial

1968 Guide:
Route This is one of the more classical artificial routes on campus, and its solution demonstrates how even the most unlikely looking buildings may sometimes be climbed with a little ingenuity.

Lower Section 1st asc. 1965 A. Purdey, R. Culbert
Begin from western end of porch on north-west corner. Just beyond the railing here a conduit pipe runs up wall to sub-roof overlooking pool. There are cross-grooves every so often in the cement, and pitons may be jammed in grooves behind pipe. Now as a rule, when weight is put on these pitons, the pipe warps and the pins rotate -- flipping out. Hence it is best to put on only partial weight and then then slip a prussic knot on conduit as it pulls away from wall. In this fashion proceed to roof.

Upper section 1st asc. 1963 - G. Headley, B. McKnight.
The party recorded above originally solved the problem of the summit overhang, reaching the forementioned sub-roof by coming out windows from inside the building. From subroof ascend these windows to ventilators under final overhang. Using sling tied on the ventilator struts go straight out, hanging free in etrier. From outer edge of ventilators reach up and hook claw-hammer of fifi-hook on edge of roof. This last movement is somewhat tricky.


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Buchanan Traverse

See: Featured Route

Note: If you plan on dropping onto the breezeway, this route requires gear.

1968 Guide:

1st asc. and traverse- 1962- A. Ellis, B. Lasserre, R. Woodsworth

This is generally considered one of the more enjoyable climbs on campus -- not difficult but fairly lengthy. It begins on the large brass decoration just to the left of Buchanan's western entrance, and by means of this the first section of roof may be gained. [2008: a bench was added. Stand on bench and jump to roof.] Turning south, ascend to next roof level by means of a shoulder stand, the last man coming up on a rope or by claw hammer and slings. [2008: a ladder was added.] The next problem is getting to roof of the penthouse, which may be done by a direct mantleshelf from a railing, but be damn careful not to swing a foot through the picture windows. [2008: climb up the north east corner of the penthouse, using the door hinges for feet. Same warning applies.]

There now comes two downhill steps. The first of these may be done with the aid of a wall bracket and door handle. Climbers jumping this directly on dark, rainy nights may be in for a surprise, as roof holds considerable water. The second step down onto junction with north Buchanan is a straight dangle and drop job. [2008: And the point of no return.]

Now comes the problem of climbing to next roof, generally accomplished by combined shoulder stands and mantleshelf, or shoulder and claw hammer. This ends the difficulties. Rappel from snorkel pipe on inside corner of eastern section of building. This provides mild shock for anyone using adjacent stairs at time.


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Hennings-Hebb Breezeway

1968 Guide:

Route 1
1967 R. Price (Lead), A. Purdey, R. Culbert, R. Scott, H. Bruce

Climb up (using shoulderstand) to ledge on outside of Henning end of breezeway. Traverse south on breezeway ledge to south end (keeping rope clear of traffic on road below). At this point you clamp a set of vice-grip pliers to a metal window flange and, with a combination stem and mantel-shelf, proceed to top of breezeway. Walk to top of Henning from here.

Route 2

(penciled in) 1972. Chris McNeil (L), Neil Humphrey, Steve White.

Climb up the north facing windows on Hebb Towers until level with the top of the breezeway. Traverse right across windows, and across a brick (polished) chimney to the top of the breezeway. A belay point is anchored from under the ridges on the breezeway roof.

This is exposed and somewhat tricky (near the chimney), but is a fun climb.


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Chemistry Windows

1968 Guide:
South Wing. 1st asc.- Steve White (L), Neil Humphrey, Chris McNeill.

Up the coloured windows facing onto University Blvd. Starting from bivy ledge above entrance. This is an exposed & STRENUOUS route. MUST be done dry -- bricks are slippery. Rappel from ladder on top. This route requires good "psyche" and better arms.


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MacLeod Corners

1968 Guide:
1st asc.- 1965- J. Whittaker, G. Headley

Route As with the Chemical Engineering building, ascent is made by successive ropings of the flying corners. Choosing the best set of corners will avoid the embarrassment of drawing a crowd of gawkers on an adjacent stairway. There is a mantle-shelf movement onto a penthouse roof, where first party swung a knee through a window -- smoother operation is recommended.


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Koerner Library Edges

Don't even think about it. Ok fine. Starting in the courtyard at the bottom of the stairs, climb the horizontal cracks.


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West Parkade Crack

Head up the crack between the two buildings using an assortment of layback, mantel, and fist-jam techniques. Go as high as you'd like, although most exit at the second railing.


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