Climbing porn.

32 replies [Last post]
Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

I keep coming across clips of folk doing amazing stuff on the real rock and realised that there's no suitable repository here on buildering.net so figured I'd make one. This is in response to this vid. The sequence of moves (skip to 4:40) is really something:

Will shortly post a couple of others as soon as I track them down. Mainly stuff I've posted elsewhere but it's nice to bring them together, I reckons. Smiling

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472
Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Johnny Dawes is one of the legends of British climbing. If you can, track down a copy of Stone Monkey:

I had the honour of working with Johnny as an instructor at Mile End before he buggered off back to North Wales to start putting up more stick-hard routes. Highlights in that first vid - the attempted head jam; his argument with his belayer; his second refusing to follow him. Brilliant.

slumdog
Offline
Joined: 04/12/2010
Posts: 3

That stuff is fantastic. Thanks!

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

I approve of this thread pimp Stone Monkey looks brilliant. My fav climbing film:

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Glad you like it. Prompted me to dig out some classics:

Laughing out loud

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

A portrait of Fred Nicole.

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Haven't made my mind up on Ondra just yet. He's an unbelievable talent but inevitably lacks the charisma of Schama et al. But then, he's only 17 and when I was that age, I was an unbearable prick. Not that Ondra is an unbearable prick. Just that he might become a little more interesting as the years go by.

Anyway. 9a+.

VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Adam Ondra on first ascent of L‘étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+), Ceüse, France from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

SelfTrainedClimber
Offline
Joined: 06/05/2010
Posts: 47

Did you know that Winter is porn for trees?

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

I feel that I may be sustaining this thread single-handedly. Ah well, no matter.

I need this song.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

Ya, you're keeping it alive, but it's much appreciated man. I'm totally out of the loop. Really diggin the vids. That Ondra route looks amazing. So long+sustained.

Here's my contribution, sure everybody's seen it by now, but little known fact: I'm in the vid! At 0:54 you can here me laughing in disbelief. A few of us Villains were wandering through the boulders, drinking beer, basically being shitty people -- and came across Sharma. The disbelief is real. No acting involved. I'd say I add a nice tone to the video.

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Ah, what a claim to fame!  Love that climb, love that vid, and what an honour to be audibly present. Eye-wink

One repeat of Dreamcatcher so far, apparently - Sean McColl, 2009.

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Maybe *slightly* melodramatic in its editing, and quite amusing about how it manages to get all of its sponsors featured in the first 20 seconds, but this is quite remarkable. I had to watch it twice so that I could ignore the subtitles the second time around.

 

 

Panaroma - The Climb from Damiano Levati

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

I wish I could pretend that Tom Randall is a good friend of mine but he's not. He is in fact a good friend of a good friend of mine, so we're good friends by proxy. He is, inevitably, a really really nice bloke and often pops down to Mile End Climbing Wall to set us some rather monstrous boulder problems.

Tom's favourite thing is horrible, horrible cracks. At the weekend he soloed 'Ray's Roof', a fearsome off-width crack in the Peak District of England, a (roped) line that has rarely been repeated since it was put up in the 1970s. Probably his proudest tick is this French 8b+ problem in Somerset. Quality's not great and it's a real shame not to see the hand placements in the crack, but never mind.

One Infinity, 8b+ Roof Crack from Wild Country

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

I watched the Ueli vid at a film festival recently and almost vomited with anxiety. That shit is light years ahead of anything I've ever seen.

Also seen at fest: ROXXX.
Can't embed. Click on film here: http://www.reelrocktour.com/contest/
(top rope tough guys pretty good too)

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Finally. Some real climbing porn.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

There's a REAL rock climbing porn out there, but I don't wanna search for it at work!

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

He gives it E10 7A which seems a bit generous. My (irrelevant and ill-informed) judgement is E6-E8.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

Who bolts a perfectly good trad climb Laughing out loud
Question tho: the fall at the end -- set up on a bolt? I wanted to see some good ol' trad gear testing.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

[removed...I posted a link to a climbing game, which might've had a virus with it. oops!]

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

Some local climbing

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Superb work.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

Nice offwidth climbing. Hope this kid lives for a few years.

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

My friend Tom (see my post above from 11/16/2010) is currently crushing all of your puny off-widths:

http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/10/century-crack-grade.html

His climbing partner Pete Whittaker flashed A Belly Full of Bad Berries last week. Ridiculous.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

Teaser vid is up. Fuck ya!

Wide Boys climb Century Crack from chris Alstrin on Vimeo.

ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

A demotivational vid:

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Not the highest numbers but a nice vid nonetheless. La Baleine and Big Jim are two that I need to go back and finish. Certainly two of my favourites problems in the forest. Big Jim is eminently doable but is fucking HIGHer than it looks in that vid. And La Baleine - ignore the guy in grey. He's some sort of morpho giant. His sequence is insane. That final rail before the pop to the finger jug is way harder than those guys make it look. Probably cos they climb 7C and it's only 7A+...

We call it " Bleau " from Sandstones on Vimeo.

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472
ardarvin
ardarvin's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/19/2007
Posts: 1406

Nice. First I've heard of her, but I'm out of the loop. Cute blonde girl climbs 5.14d? I'm guessing the magazines are all over her.

Kiell
Kiell's picture
Offline
Joined: 05/07/2008
Posts: 472

Why this numpty had to get rid of the original soundtrack is beyond me. Why he thought that then replacing with crap was a good idea is truly a mystery.

Anyway. Johnny Dawes has a book out and I'm quite pleased that this has sneaked its way online. From the classic 1986 film 'Stone Monkey'. Will see if I can find the clip of Pete Whittaker doing the route last year.