Thunderbird Stadium

Posted Thu, 11/27/2008 - 14:10 by ardarvin

After hours climbing only.

A barbed wire fence has been added since 1968, likely to keep out folks wanting to see Radiohead for free. Climb over the main entrance gate on the east side of the building, and head through the building to the south. Climb the rock wall on the south end of the building, and up on to the roof.

The rest of the 1968 description is applicable, although I'd recommend Method 1. It's more fun and quicker, especially since it's a royal pain getting your prusiks around the cables should you start from the bottom.

Grant and I used 8mm static cord, which was shredded after a couple ascents. Webbing may hold up a bit better. Kenny Frazz is convinced leather straps are the ticket.

Safety Bears may want to be on belay, which is possible. Use the point where the cables meet the pillar as a single point of protection. Should the leader fall, the belayer should quickly and decisively jump off the high edge of the roof. Theoretically neither will hit the ground.

1968 Guide:

Route 1st. asc. Oct. 1967 L. Watson (assisted by F. Bauman, R. Price, and M. Warr)
Two easy moves get you on the main roof. From the entrance gate at the north side, climb the gate to top of stone wall and mantel shelf to the roof. The roof is supported by cables from twelve 70 ft. concrete pillars. The width of the pillars precluded any method of climbing but by prussicing. Two alternatives present themselves:

1. Climb up a cable (we climbed the 4th one from the north end) and then using prussic slings of at least 12 ft. in length, gain the thunderbird top.
2. Prussic directly from bottom to top. Cable can be used for running belay. (The successful team used method 2).

The birds on top appear to be fairly solid and the hole in the beak can be used as a rappel point.


Difficulty

Quality