The Kenny Frazz Interview
The Kenny Frazz Interview
by ardarvin
Before there was buildering.net, there was Kenny. Before there was buildering, there was Kenny. Before there were buildings, there was Kenny. Kenny is, Kenny was, and Kenny will be long after you are dead.
But seriously, before buildering became the multi-million-dollar-media-darling-extreme-sport of the 90s, there was simply a couple of friends out having fun on the campus walls of UBC. Kenny introduced me to climbing in all of its forms, and his enthusiasm for climbing affects all those around him.
This is Kenny.
What's it like living in the rock climbing mecca of Canada: Squamish?
Well, when we first moved in we had a bunch of people staying over, because Squamish was the place to be. The weather was good and the climbing was good. So we had a bunch of people sleeping on the floor. One night some drunk ass motherfucker decided to come over, because our house used to be the house of his dealer, I guess. He wanted to get hooked up with some drugs, and thought that 'Rob the Dealer' was going to give it to him, however 'Rob the Dealer' had moved out a couple weeks previous. Anyways, all the people sleeping on the floor, and in cars outside hear him come in yelling "Rob Rob". Some chick on the floor tells him to get out, so he left, and then came back in and started hitting people who were standing around. He generally assaulted two or three people who were up from the states.
I was awoken by some girl banging on the bedroom door telling me to call the cops. I went outside with an ice axe, but was too scared to use it, cause the guy was really drunk. And finally a really big neighbor came out with a baseball bat and told the guy to fuck off, because he had to work tomorrow. So he left, and then later got arrested. It was a good welcome wagon to Squamish.
So you climb buildings?
Occasionally, I've been known to do so.
But your big thing is ice climbing right now?
It was for a little while, but I'm too scared, so I'm just gonna boulder indoors now [laugh]. That's where it's at... big cushy landings.
Kenny, Admin Dyno.
How did you get into buildering?
Uhmmm, well how did we get into buildering? How did you get into buildering? I think I got into it hanging around Jack Fieldhouse and crew. I think the first problem I did was the Admin Dyno at UBC. We got kicked out by a security guard.
I've never been hassled there.
Yup, they told us to get lost.
Were you guys using chalk?
Yeah we had some chalk going on, climbing shoes, but now it's all ah...
Clean?
Clean yeah, if you wanna use that word.
That's a hard problem without climbing shoes.
The secret is the Adidas Gazelles. They're where it's at.
Do they have the three stripes?
The white rubber. Yeah, three stripes.
What is your favorite problem on campus?
Maybe the Oceanography Dyno, or maybe the Oceanography traverse type one...those are both quality. I don't know, there's quite a few good ones, and a lot of undiscovered ones, I just haven't put enough time into it lately.
What are your feelings on buildering ethics?
Well I'm taking a course right now called Environmental Ethics and I think a lot of those ethics apply, you know? You really have to respect the building your climbing. It's not just about the person who's climbing the building. I mean, sure that may seem pretty important and all, but what about the building? What about the plants you're landing on, the pea-gravel you're disturbing?
Minimal impact.
Minimal impact buildering, that's what I'm all about. That's why I builder naked. No clothes at all. It's the wave of the future in a lot of sports. It's very minimal impact, everything naked. And a little olive oil doesn't hurt if there are authorities about. There's nothing harder than catching a greased builderer.
What do you think about buildering ratings?
Are you going to create a new system?
Yeah, I'm gonna call it the Ard system. Ard0 to Ard14. Ard0 is equivalent to getting into an elevator and pushing the top floor button, and Ard14 is equivalent to climbing ten stories of overhanging glass sprayed with Pam, with a pack of rabid police dogs nipping at your feet.
Where do stairs rate?
Oh about a Ard2 or 3.
I don't know about the rating thing. For me it's all about feel. I kinda take the Chris Sharma approach to bouldering and not rate things. What's hard for me is easy to other people. A lot of buildering is height dependent, and I'm really short. What might be A14 to me might be A7 to you cause you're tall and got that ape thing going on. I think I should have my own rating system...the K scale.
Kenny, North Parkade Dyno
What would be a K14 on your scale?
Ten floors of overhanging glass.
With rabid police dogs?
No, just police cars, that's where we differ.
What do you think about the increased popularity of buildering?
The more the merrier, and those who are the exclusive type, those who think it's only for a clique or small group of people, I think that's bullshit. Because if it's popular, there's a reason it's popular. If people enjoy it, why not enjoy it? And if they wanna come buildering, then why now show them around? It's just about having fun, it's not that big of a deal.
But at the same time, don't you think that with increased popularity, buildering is at a greater risk of getting shutdown by authorities?
Who cares?
Good point. Most sports go through some sort of Golden Age, for rock-climbing I'd claim it was in the 70's, do you think we are in buildering's Golden Age right now?
I don't know if there is such a thing as a Golden Age, or if it's just a bunch of old people being nostalgic about what they were doing at the time. I think my Golden Age for buildering is right now, but I think someone else's Golden Age is going to be in twenty years. Whenever they want it to be.
If you had to get arrested for one thing what would it be?
Making love to a squirrel, while climbing an A14.
Bert vs. Ernie in a fist fight, who would win?
I don't know, I'm a pacifist, I don't fight. [pause] I think I'd win, I'd kick both their asses.
Sharma vs. Brad Pitt in an arm-wrestle?
I don't know about that.
Brad Pitt during the Snatch days.
Oh Snatch Pitt! What's Chris Sharma's era? Is it Realization, or is he bouldering in Fountainebleu or something like that?
This would be the Squamish Egg Sharma.
Squamish Egg Sharma vs. Snatch Brad Pitt in an arm-wrestle. I think Brad Pitt would pull out a gun and shoot Chris Sharma in the head, and then burn his mother. Yeah I think Brad Pitt would win that one, through devious means.
I thought you were a pacifist.
I am.
Sharma vs. Bruce Lee?
Sharma's dead.
Right, Brad Pitt vs. Bruce Lee.
Bruce Lee would kick anyone's ass.
Bruce Lee vs. Kenny Frazz?
Kenny Frazz would kick that motherfucker's ass. Bruce Lee would be on the ground in no time. Besides, Bruce Lee is dead.
