by Ard Arvin
It's Saturday evening and the 9th annual Squamish Film Festival is over. Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright have finished presenting their Sufferfest series, detailing their self-propelled adventures cycling and free solo climbing in California and Utah. The crowd has dispersed. Honnold and like-minded local phenom Marc-Andre Leclerc are in the lobby swapping beta on Squamish's Grand Wall.
In 2013 Leclerc somewhat unintentionally broke Honnold's speed record of the top-to-bottom Squamish Grand Wall link up, Apron Strings + The Grand Wall + Roman Chimneys by one minute. 15 pitches, 520 m of climbing, 58 minutes bottom to top without a rope.
Alex climbed the route yesterday as a reconnaissance mission. "How did you climb Perry's Layback?" "I found some sections a bit hairy so I grabbed the bolts." "Ya me too." "The loose-ish block on the chimneys?" "Ya, it won't break when you pull on it, but you know it won't be there forever." They turn their attention to other climbs, or "scrambles" as they refer to them. A scramble is traditionally defined as it sounds, not quite climbing, not quite hiking -- normally reserved for hikers summiting the last few meters of a...
Jan 22, 2015
I often get a bit frustrated that so few of London's climbers venture out of their warm, safe, cosy gyms and take on the city's buildering problems. So it was quite refreshing when I stumbled upon this on twitter the other day. A few classics ticked in fine style and one or two that I've not seen before. And the guys have kindly provided a map of their favourite problems - click here. (And a quick shout out to Caedmon and David for putting together the original map.)
Jan 21, 2015
Jan 16, 2015
The key to appreciating art is putting on a nice suit, shiny shoes, and making an evening of it. But this is YouTube, I’m two beers deep into 8% northwest IPA, and deciding if I have the energy to make Ichiban.
Nothing profound will come of my current state, so instead I offer you live stream of consciousness:
0:07 - upside down. I can do that.
0:17 - ooh, real buildering. stoked.
0:26 - that Lenin? I am the walrus.
0:33 - OK, what the fuq is this.
0:55 - urban acrobatics? you said it, not me.
1:07 - nice bike, reminds me of that 3rd world motorbiking thread.
1:10 - what da fuq?
1:14 - people in the background be like, “what da fuq?”
1:15 - kinda getting turned on now.
1:32 - what you censoring yo?
[1:40 - 2:14] - mmm…beer getting low.
2:45 - “Indy! Indy!” (voice of Short Round).
2:59 - asked my roommate to rappel off of Granville bridge with me, his response: “why?”
Oct 09, 2014
“Once you're grown up, you cant come back.” - Peter Pan.
Having recently brought to life my infantile dream of locating to New York, my life has become one supreme scouting mission, absorbing new surroundings to capture, train, run through, and kick back and appreciate. It’s become an obsession, which has ultimately led to the continuous mental note making of all the visually arresting spots I encounter on my commutes to and from work. I kind of stroll amongst the morning crowds across Manhattan with my music in and teleport myself in to some sort of music video of the...
Sep 17, 2014
The museum has put a call out for digital content for inclusion in an accompanying online exhibition. Entries can be submitted as of September 21. For more information, click here.
Sep 16, 2014
The Urban Boulder guys in Vienna have just release this rather awesome little nugget of a vid featuring the first ascent of a tasty highball dubbed 'Hole-In-One'.
Sounds like urban-boulder.com will be getting an overhaul in the near future so we look forward to seeing the new website.
Sep 04, 2014
Aug 28, 2014
Kiell won't post this because he's got his hate on for "the Blue Cow," but I will. Granted this all looks rather contrived: bolting some holds to a bridge to give some nice jumpy jump-jumps for the Red Bull cameras -- it reminds me of that Tom Cruise desert tower scene. But who really cares? More importantly it looks like something I want to try. The more weird shit that Red Bull throws into the mainstream, the more publicly accepted this will all become. If that means one less phone call to the cops during a buildering outing then it's worth it. "Ohh you're CREEPING? Ya, ya, that's cool."
Aug 25, 2014
Fifty years of misinterpreting architecture at the University of British Columbia
Photo: Glenn Woodsworth
Article originally published in Summer 2013 edition of Coast Mountain Culture magazine. Used with permission.
By: Dave Quinn
The Varsity Outdoors Club (VOC) at the University of British Columbia has long been the breeding ground of climbing inventiveness, creativity and tenacity. Big names, like Dick Culbert, Guy Edwards, Tim Auger and Hamish Mutch, all found companions in the VOC to help push the limits of what could be done in the mountains.
For the climbing fanatics, however, the mountains were painfully far away from campus. VOC members were often distracted by nuisances, such as studying and classes, and often the windows of opportunity were too short to work on new routes up the Squamish Chief or even to escape to Lighthouse Park for a sunset cragging session.